從實作觀點看另類食物網絡如何形構永續生活

Abstract

近年臺灣出現許多另類食物網絡，讓消費者直接和農友購買有機食物，以此取得健康安全的食材、促進在地農業、保護生態。目前另類食物網絡的研究大多關注小農、農業和另類市場，而較少探究消費與日常生活。本研究以合樸農夫市集所成立的「樹合苑」作為個案。以「日常實作」概念，分析另類食物網絡中的消費者社群如何建構永續的日常實作、如何組合多元的實作進而發展成特定的生活模式？本研究分析樹合苑網站、媒體報導並訪談參與者，透過參與活動觀察後發現，樹合苑消費者建構了一個支持性網絡和社會展演的空間。支持性網絡把抽象的農業和環境知識，轉譯成日常實作的知識，並建立新的實作規則和做法。樹合苑同時也是一個實作展演的社會性空間，得以讓消費者進行對話和互相學習，實驗新的實作方法，並將不同實作組合起來；透過生活方式的論述賦予目的和價值。從實作的觀點出發，本文企圖凸顯另類食物網絡如何重組購買食材、烹飪、飲食實作的元素，並連結其他日常實作的機制，由此擴大我們對另類食物網絡文化影響力的理解。

Farmers markets, consumer cooperatives, and community supported agriculture are examples of alternative food networks (AFNs) that promote organic and local foods to consumers. This paper uses practice theory to understand how AFNs shape food consumption. The case of Eco-Tree Hub created by the first farmer's market in Taiwan is used to illustrate how a consumer community can reconfigure elements of buying, cooking and eating practices and connect food practices to other daily practices such as the use of reusable shopping bags and utensils. The paper makes the argument that AFN's agrifood education allows consumers to play an active role in framing food qualities. Moreover, the consumer community in AFN provided a social space of performance, using food qualities as the sharing element to connect a variety of practices into practice bundles. The consumer community also serve as a supporting network that enable consumers to influence and coordinate with their family members to re-organize daily life.