Wave reflection over a sloping beach

Abstract

A frequency domain method for separating Incident and reflected waves is proposed to account for normally incident waves propagating over a sloping beach in a wave flumes Linear wave shoaling is applied to determine changes of the wave amplitude and phase due to variations of the bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient is estimated from wave heights measured by two fixed wave gauges with a separated distance. The method is applicable to both monochromatic and random waves. Brief comparisons between theories and the proposed model are made for waves propagating over a sloping seabed.