TRANSFER-FUNCTION BETWEEN WAVE HEIGHT AND WAVE PRESSURE FOR PROGRESSIVE WAVES

Abstract

Predicting the wave height from the subsurface wave pressure based on the pressure response factor and the correction factor has fundamental difficulties. The relationship between the measured wave height and the subsurface wave pressure was directly assessed in this study without resorting to the two parameters. Laboratory experiments were performed under various wave conditions. An empirical expression of the transfer function between wave height and wave pressure was obtained from these test data by dimensional analysis and regression analysis. In intermediate and deep water depth conditions, the transfer function was only a function of a nondimensional parameter which is composed of the angular frequency, the depth of the pressure sensor under the still water level and the acceleration of gravity. Finally, the empirical expression was compared with the experimental data and observational data from Hom-ma et al. (1966), Cavaleri (1978), Lee and Wang (1984), and Bishop and Donelan (1987). The empirical formula was found to be in sufficient correlation with these data.