A three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves over a sloping bed

Abstract

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.