以符號學探析ETUDE HOUSE年度影像廣告─ 論新韓流的K-Beauty神話

Abstract

本論文研製之新韓流策略運行於韓國美妝產業於全球市場迅速擴展之現象。韓國美妝品牌以韓國第一大美妝集團愛茉莉太平洋旗下的ETUDE HOUSE在台灣與全球美妝市場擁有高成長率，其以粉紅色品牌表徵展現其甜美與浪漫意象，大量運用新韓流重視韓國明星系統為品牌象徵，展現於日常生活場域之特性，將三者元素共同呈現在年度影像廣告之中，結合不同廣告文本呈現其品牌形象。 本論文以ETUDE HOUSE進駐台灣市場時間為基準，將2009年至2015年共七則年度影像廣告為研究對象，奠基於新韓流運行策略、韓國美妝特性，以及色彩學與社會學賦予粉紅色意象在流行體系脈絡中的指涉為論述基礎，研究方法採用符號學結構與神話學分析的整合性架構，從Saussure的毗鄰軸與系譜軸結構拆解文本與符號，以及Barthes的神話學分析意識形態。 研究結果發現，ETUDE HOUSE透過年度影像廣呈現其美妝商品在消費者日常生活的易用性，並以新韓流的明星系統在廣告中的愛情互動與女性自信元素，貼合粉紅色品牌構連女性須受呵護的甜美形象，同時透過不同的粉紅色符碼包裹其底妝與唇妝商品訊息，呈現底妝與唇妝品項在韓國美妝當中的重要性，以多重粉紅色意象作為韓國美妝時尚流行訊息與韓國妝容趨勢之象徵性符碼，相互撞擊出ETUDE HOUSE在消費社會與韓國流行文化當中的神話。

A procedure of the thesis is focusing on Hallyu 2.0 phenomenon, K-Beauty Myth, and brand images of ETUDE HOUSE. Hallyu 2.0 emphasizes on choosing Korea pop star as global endorsement and exposure korea products in livehood to represent Koreness in global market, which dramatically impact on development of Korean beauty industry. Among the best in Korean makeup brands, ETUDE HOUSE, a makeup sub-brand of Amore Pacific Corporation in South Korea, owns astonishing growth rate on overseas cosmetics market because of utilizing the pink implications and features of Hallyu2.0 to be a remarkable feat of K-Beauty. This thesis adopts an integrated perspective, which combined structure of syntagmatic axis and paradigmatic relations from Saussure’s insight in semiotics, and Myth analysising from Barthes’ viewpoint in Mythology toward ETUDE HOUSE annual advertising from 2009 to 2015. Reserch found that ETUDE HOUSE outlined accessibility of makeup products in daily scenes, combined the images from personal charisma of global endorsements and pink metaphor on each annual advertising. ETUDE HOUSE narrating love attraction and female confidence, emboding on characteristics in Hallyu2.0 and pink identity, and even reveal leading trend of K-Beauty on foundation and lipgloss commodies in annual advertising, building unique myth in consumption society and cultural context due to above factors.