評估豬隻胎盤萃取液在抗皮膚老化及美白之功效

Abstract

中國古來即運用乾燥胎盤-紫河車，用於「至男女一切虛損勞極、安心養血、益氣補精。」，乃為早經證實之古有漢方胎盤療法。近年來各先進國家更用於各種化妝品、皮膚保養品等外敷製劑，其防止皮膚老化、美容、潤白肌膚之效果也有著一定的評價。老化的皮膚生長緩慢，每天受到外界環境污染或紫外線照射而受損的表皮細胞及黑色素，來不及由基底層所增生的新細胞所取代，積存在皮膚表面，外觀就顯得又粗又黑，甚至產生許多皮膚的病變。 此實驗目的是在胎盤萃取物之抗老化與美白能力評估包括活性氧(ROS)的捕捉、抑制酪胺酸酶的測定，以及細胞培養方法觀察此萃取物對於皮膚細胞的存活率影響及抑制黑色素形成的能力。而抗老化與美白能力評估主要方向為：(1)ROS之捕捉效應和促進纖維母細胞增生及膠原蛋白之生成量及光損害之保護能力；(2)抑制酪胺酸酶及黑色素形成的能力；(3)確定豬隻胎盤中之成分。實驗結果發現：(1)活性氧捕捉之功效均隨萃取液濃度提高而增加，且抗氧化能力以水之萃取液比其它萃取液佳。(2)促進皮膚纖維母細胞NIH 3T3 之增生及膠原蛋白合成在萃取液濃度為0.75 mg/ml 時效果較佳。(3)水萃取液於濃度於 1 mg/ml下，具有60﹪的酪胺酸酶活性抑制率；而對B16黑色素的抑制率方面，當水之萃取物在濃度小於0.5 mg/ml對B16黑色素形成的抑制率達75﹪以上。(4)皮膚纖維母細胞經UV照射後，萃取液濃度介於0.25~0.75 mg/ml是保護皮膚纖維母細胞抵抗紫外線之最適濃度。(5)在胎盤萃取液中確實有bFGF、EGF、VEGF的存在。

Placenta is a rich reservoir of bioactive molecules. Placenta extracts contain basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF), transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1), keratinocyte growth factor (KGF) and stimulators of endothelial cell growth. The objectives of the study is to evaluate the efficacy of an anti-skin aging and whitening cosmetics that containing porcine placental extracts. The study includes：(1) To evaluate the efficacy of anti-skin aging of the porcine placenta extracts remedies by observation the scavenging activity of reactive oxygen species(ROS)；collagen formation of the cultured fibroblast ； protection of fibroblast by photodamageing and stimulation of the growth of skin and corium. (2) Tyrosinase inhibition via determining cells viability, and melanin inhibition of the cultured melanocytes. (3) Identification of growth factors of porcine placental extracts that involved in the above-mentioned activities. The results obtained are as following：(1) Reactive oxygen species scavenging activities with increasing the concentration of the porcine placental extracts. The antioxidant capacity of extracts in water was better than other extracts. It showed that water extracts had the highest scavenging effect. (2) Cell proliferation showed the extracts concentration between 0.05 ~1 mg/ml and the result showed that best cell proliferation was with a concentration of 0.75 mg/ml . On enhancing collagen content of NIH 3T3，it showed that best collagen content was with a concentration of 0.75 mg/ml. (3) Placental extracts in water had the highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity than other extracts. It showed 60﹪tyrosinase inhibitory activity at 1 mg/ml. The water extracts revealed 75﹪inhibition on melanin content of B16 at concentration≦0.5 mg/ml.(4) The optimum concentration of the extracts that shower protect on photodamageing by UV was 0.25~0.75 mg/ml. (5) bFGF、EGF、VEGF was present in the placental extracts.