粢粑文化與結群的變遷：一個苗栗客家村落的民族誌

Abstract

過去客家族群的日常生活裡，無論是婚喪喜慶、蒔田割稻等群聚的場合裡，粢粑是道常見的招待點心，這樣的粢粑文化仍持續至今，並隨著社會型態的變遷，成為婚喪喜慶儀式下的食物。本論文通過粢粑製程、共食的展演改變，探討客家族群面對社會變遷，女性於家戶內、家戶間承轉結群關係的多元可能。本研究以人類學民族誌的理論及方法，針對苗栗縣造橋鄉大西村的婦女進行深度訪談，並參與觀察大西村的日常生活，透過婦女口述其與粢粑的勞動經驗，描述當代北臺灣客家社群的親屬與性別的轉變經驗。

本論文的第一章從大西村僅存的伙房建築，及其店鋪座落位置，鋪陳村民的日常生活。第二章探討製成粢粑重要原料米的耕作及其衍生之換工結群，並藉由飲食文學裡有關食用粢粑的場景描述，反映大時代下粢粑相對於客家族群之獨特性，呈現粢粑日常與儀式時的風貌。第三章則以大西村的伙房變遷，透過空間的轉變，談論家戶內成員在此一過程所經歷的形成、遷移、與重組的結群變化。第四章談論客家婦女的生命變化，藉由女性描述有關粢粑製程中之勞動經驗，展現面對家戶內以及家戶外的變遷下，女性是維繫社群穩定的力量。第五章分析儀式下的粢粑所隱含的客家文化意涵，凸顯其構成當代客家族群社會的獨特性，並藉此表述當代客家婦女在社會變遷中的經驗，理解客家婦女的生命歷程。最後，在結論章嘗試以這個民族誌個案與儀式、飲食、女性結群理論進行對話。

In the past, glutinous rice cakes were a common dessert served to guests at all gatherings and occasions, such as weddings, funerals, and grain harvesting. The tradition of serving glutinous rice cakes has been passed down to modern times. As the norms of society change, it has become the ceremonial food for weddings, funerals, and other celebrations. This thesis will explore how the Hakka people face the changes in society through the glutinous rice cake making process, the changes of showcasing eating together, and the possibility of women passing on the various relationships between groups. This research will utilize the theory and method of anthropology and ethnography to conduct in-depth interviews with women living in Daxi Village, Zaoqiao Township in Miaoli and join in observing the daily lives of Daxi Village residents. Oral accounts by women and their experience of making glutinous rice cakes describe the current changes in the relatives and gender changes that northern Taiwan Hakka groups are experiencing.

Chapter one of this thesis will elaborate upon the daily lives of the village residents from the only cookhouse left in Daxi Village to the location of the store. Chapter two will discuss the process of the planting rice, which is an important ingredient for making the glutinous rice cakes, and the derivative of changing work groups. Through the description of the situation where glutinous rice cakes are consumed found in dietary literature and reflect the unique place it has to Hakka people in modern times, showing the features of glutinous rice cakes in daily life and for ceremonies. Chapter three will discuss the formation, changes, and regrouping the family members experienced when the Daxi Village cookhouse changed its spacing. Chapter four will discuss how Hakka women have experienced changes in their lives. Descriptions by women of the process of making glutinous rice cakes will exhibit how they face the changes that happen within the house and outside of the house and how women maintain the stability of social groups. Chapter five will analyze the cultural context of glutinous rice cake used for ceremonies and highlight the uniqueness of modern day Hakka groups, and also use it to present the social changes experienced by modern day Hakka women and understand the experiences of Hakka women in their lifetimes. Finally, in the conclusion, we attempt to have a dialogue with this ethnography and ceremony, diet, and the theory of female grouping.