北埔客家糕餅的文化意涵：以隆源餅行為例

Abstract

過去的糕餅主要用來祭祀並有其象徵意涵，但隨著時代的變遷，外來飲食文化的影響，傳統糕餅業逐漸沒落，嚴重威脅著傳統糕餅文化的發展與生存。北埔糕餅產業的發展也有百年歷史，因觀光的興起而有了生存轉機，但面對社會消費文化的轉變，糕餅業者要如何從傳統產業轉型成地方文化產業，才能繼續延續客家糕餅文化。 本研究透過「飲食與文化關係」、「符號與消費理論」、「地方文化產業」三個部分，探討新竹北埔糕餅產業及其客家文化意涵，並利用質性研究中文獻分析、深度訪談法及參與觀察法進行研究。文本分析乃是依據文獻資料，探討糕餅成為北埔地方特產的時間點及產業的發展。以深度訪談法了解客家糕餅文化及餅舖經營的歷史與發展，以及消費者對客家糕餅的印象與對客家糕餅文化的認同。藉由參與觀察法，了解糕餅做為代表客家食物的象徵符號，業者如何透過銷售延續客家糕餅的傳承。 研究發現客家人以務農為主，生活窮困善用食材，「粄」是生活飲食的一部分，餅只有在中秋節及結婚的時候才吃的到。糕餅過去有著圓滿、發財等象徵意涵，在現今消費社會下，糕餅成為族群飲食，有著「客家」飲食文化的象徵，且在生活富裕之後，消費者對糕餅越來越重視口味、包裝及品質，對於傳統熱量高的糕餅也有著健康養生的看法。隆源餅行為求生存，將糕餅發展成為「地方特產」，代表「客家族群」飲食文化，配合政府「產業文化化、文化產業化」的政策，讓客家糕餅文化傳承下去。 過去眾多的糕餅研究中，不管是區域或個案研究都集中在台中地區 ，且多位於閩南人聚居的村落，尚無論文研究客家區域的傳統餅舖。因此本論文以新竹縣北埔鄉隆源餅行為例，雖為第一個探討客家餅鋪的先驅，仍有不足之處，希望本篇研究的小小發現能做為後輩研究者參考。

In past times, rice cake and pastry were mainly used in worship with a symbolic meaning. However, as times change, under the impact of foreign food culture, the traditional rice cake and pastry industry gradually declined, so the development and survival of traditional rice cake and pastry culture is facing a serious threat. The development of Beipu rice cake and pastry industry also has a century-old history, which is exempt from the threat because of the rise of sightseeing. But in the face of changing social consumer culture, what could rice cake and pastry industry workers do to transform traditional industries into local cultural industries in order to continue to follow the rice cake and pastry Hakka culture? Trough the discussions of "relations between diet and culture", "symbol and consumer theory", and "cultural industry", new Beipu rice cake and pastry industry and its Hakka implications are explored in this research. The methodology includes literature analysis, in-depth interviews and participant observation. Based on the literature materials, text analysis was conducted for the time of rice cake becoming local specialty as well as the industry development. In-depth interview was conducted to understand Hakka culture, history and development of rice cake and pastry shop management, as well as consumers' impressions on Hakka cake and pastry and their recognition for Hakka rice cake and pastry culture. By participant observation, we could understand how entrepreneurs transform the tradition of Hakka rice cake and pastry into an ethnic symbol of Hakka food in contemporary Taiwanese society. The research found that Hakka people in the past times mostly lived in poverty but were able to make good use of food ingredients. "Rice" was a part of life and diet, while pastry were seen only in Mid-Autumn Festival and wedding banquets. Rice cakes used to meant success, fortune andgood wishes, but in today's consumer society, rice cake and pastry have become ethnic food to represent "Hakka" food culture. Along with the better living standard, the consumers have an increasing emphasis on rice cake and pastry flavors, packaging and food quality, implying that traditional rice cake has the disavatage of high-calorie. My case study shows that in order to survive, the owner of Lung Yuan Pastry Store has developed a sale strategy to promote their products as "local specialty" that represents "Hakka" food culture, so as to accord with the Government's policy that advocates to "bring culture to industry, and bring industry to culture". The existent studies of rice cake and pastry industry concentrates on the Taichung area, which focuses on the taste of Holo ethnic group. My research, instead, makes the initial contribution to the study of Hakka rice cake and pastry, and the successful case is represented by Lung Yuan, located in Beipu Township, Hsinchu County, Taiwan.