窘境美學：臺灣時尚部落格中的後殖民與後女性政略

Abstract

近十年，臺灣時尚部落格逐步成為時尚產業重要一環，實質參與在地認同的形構過程。時尚研究雖然漸為學界重視，所占討論席次仍然不足，以部落格為題之時尚研究更亟須開拓。阿多諾(Theodor Adorno)以降之社會學者、人類學者及反色情女性主義者多強調時尚符號的巧計幻象，少有注意消費者的能動抵抗。本文以臺灣近五年知名時尚部落格為例，細密檢視其中由時尚部落客、部落格讀者及大眾媒體三者所共同操演運作的產業模式及（抵）認同形構，重思部落格活動於消費網絡中的收編定位與抵抗潛力。本文自網路消費者理論、行為結構分析、時尚研究概念出發，結合當代後殖民主義與後女性主義論述，試圖發展出一套窘境美學，視時尚部落格為一種「窘境」展演：窘境乃主體於面對自身與他者之間文化、政治、經濟落差之際，所作諧擬挪用式的抵抗，以窘制霸，游移體制邊界。本文期盼在窘境美學的研究基礎上，延伸與發展更深遠的討論與對話，用以研究臺灣當代豐富多元的在地抵抗實踐。

In the past decade, blogging has played a critical role in the fashion industry in Taiwan, taking part in the formation of the local identity. While gaining increasing visibility in academia, the intersection of fashion studies and media studies has not been investigated in any depth. The emphasis on the illusory tricks imbedded in fashion construction made by the Frankfurt School Marxists and anti-porn feminists ignore the resistant agency of the consumer. This paper takes renowned Taiwanese fashion blogs as examples, examining the power apparatus and identity formation worked by bloggers, readers, and the media. This paper further reconsiders the position and potential of fashion blogs/blogging in capitalist networks. Employing media studies, performative discourses, fashion discussions, as well as post-colonialist and post-feminist theories, this paper intends to develop a political aesthetic of awkwardness as demonstrated by local fashion blogs. An awkward scenario refers to a subject's conscious, tactical parody and appropriation when confronting its political, economic and cultural chasm with other(s). It is the ultimate goal of this paper to further elaborate on the aesthetics of awkwardness, developing it into a flexible methodology that contributes to the research on diverse/alternative practices of resistance in Taiwan.