新竹地區客家料理與飲食文化調查研究

Abstract

飲食是文化的另一種呈現方式，從飲食習慣可以回顧或前瞻歷史、社會文化變遷與傳承，本研究透過文獻分析、深度訪談及實地觀察法，由客家料理的面向切入，探討新竹地區客家料理與文化習俗的關聯性、客家料理與飲食文化、客家料理堅持傳統與創新的原因，首先從文獻回顧進行與客家飲食有關之論述的分析及了解，再以客家菜餚為主軸，由菜餚的作法及訪談觀察來了解其背後的文化意涵，以發掘客家飲食文化的真實樣貌。經實地探討之結果，客家飲食因歷史、地形、人為等因素而形成了獨特的客家文化，有些傳統文化歷久不變深值人心，有些傳統文化是孤獨的，常因時代的變遷及進步而逐漸凋零，需要刻意去保護及發展，而另一股創新的力量應運生起，當傳統與創新雙軌進行時，筆者看見客家飲食文化的一線曙光。

Cultures can be represented by diet. From diet, a culture’s history is reviewed and previewed, and a cultural society is developed and inherited. Through literature research, interviews and field observations in the Hsinchu region, a Hakka’s perspective on cuisine is uncovered. The relationship between Hakka’s cuisine and culture, diet, and its tradition and creativity are explored. First, from the literature analysis conducted on the Hakka diet, revolving around the main theme of Hakka cuisine, using the recipes and interviews to understand its cultural significance and to discover the true meaning behind Hakka’s cultural diet. After field observations, Hakka’s dietary history formed into something unique through history, geography, and society. Some traditions remain unchanged, rooted in the people’s heart, some traditions are isolated, and withering as the era shifts and develops, needing deliberate protection and progression until a new inspiration fuels its re-emergence. When tradition finds inspiration, the author sees a new glimmers in Hakka’s dietary culture.