标题: 北埔客家糕饼的文化意涵:以隆源饼行为例
The Cultural Implication of Hakka’s Rice Cake and Pastry in Beipu:The Case Study of Lung Yuan Pastry Store
作者: 叶玉玲
Yeh, Yu-Ling
刘大和
Liu,Ta-ho
客家文化学院客家社会与文化学程
关键字: 地方文化产业;客家文化;消费文化;糕饼产业;ocal cultural industry;consumer culture;Hakka culture;rice cake and pastry industry
公开日期: 2014
摘要: 过去的糕饼主要用来祭祀并有其象征意涵,但随着时代的变迁,外来饮食文化的影响,传统糕饼业逐渐没落,严重威胁着传统糕饼文化的发展与生存。北埔糕饼产业的发展也有百年历史,因观光的兴起而有了生存转机,但面对社会消费文化的转变,糕饼业者要如何从传统产业转型成地方文化产业,才能继续延续客家糕饼文化。
本研究透过“饮食与文化关系”、“符号与消费理论”、“地方文化产业”三个部分,探讨新竹北埔糕饼产业及其客家文化意涵,并利用质性研究中文献分析、深度访谈法及参与观察法进行研究。文本分析乃是依据文献资料,探讨糕饼成为北埔地方特产的时间点及产业的发展。以深度访谈法了解客家糕饼文化及饼铺经营的历史与发展,以及消费者对客家糕饼的印象与对客家糕饼文化的认同。藉由参与观察法,了解糕饼做为代表客家食物的象征符号,业者如何透过销售延续客家糕饼的传承。
研究发现客家人以务农为主,生活穷困善用食材,“粄”是生活饮食的一部分,饼只有在中秋节及结婚的时候才吃的到。糕饼过去有着圆满、发财等象征意涵,在现今消费社会下,糕饼成为族群饮食,有着“客家”饮食文化的象征,且在生活富裕之后,消费者对糕饼越来越重视口味、包装及品质,对于传统热量高的糕饼也有着健康养生的看法。隆源饼行为求生存,将糕饼发展成为“地方特产”,代表“客家族群”饮食文化,配合政府“产业文化化、文化产业化”的政策,让客家糕饼文化传承下去。
过去众多的糕饼研究中,不管是区域或个案研究都集中在台中地区 ,且多位于闽南人聚居的村落,尚无论文研究客家区域的传统饼铺。因此本论文以新竹县北埔乡隆源饼行为例,虽为第一个探讨客家饼铺的先驱,仍有不足之处,希望本篇研究的小小发现能做为后辈研究者参考。
In past times, rice cake and pastry were mainly used in worship with a symbolic meaning. However, as times change, under the impact of foreign food culture, the traditional rice cake and pastry industry gradually declined, so the development and survival of traditional rice cake and pastry culture is facing a serious threat. The development of Beipu rice cake and pastry industry also has a century-old history, which is exempt from the threat because of the rise of sightseeing. But in the face of changing social consumer culture, what could rice cake and pastry industry workers do to transform traditional industries into local cultural industries in order to continue to follow the rice cake and pastry Hakka culture?
Trough the discussions of "relations between diet and culture", "symbol and consumer theory", and "cultural industry", new Beipu rice cake and pastry industry and its Hakka implications are explored in this research. The methodology includes literature analysis, in-depth interviews and participant observation. Based on the literature materials, text analysis was conducted for the time of rice cake becoming local specialty as well as the industry development. In-depth interview was conducted to understand Hakka culture, history and development of rice cake and pastry shop management, as well as consumers' impressions on Hakka cake and pastry and their recognition for Hakka rice cake and pastry culture. By participant observation, we could understand how entrepreneurs transform the tradition of Hakka rice cake and pastry into an ethnic symbol of Hakka food in contemporary Taiwanese society.
The research found that Hakka people in the past times mostly lived in poverty but were able to make good use of food ingredients. "Rice" was a part of life and diet, while pastry were seen only in Mid-Autumn Festival and wedding banquets. Rice cakes used to meant success, fortune andgood wishes, but in today's consumer society, rice cake and pastry have become ethnic food to represent "Hakka" food culture. Along with the better living standard, the consumers have an increasing emphasis on rice cake and pastry flavors, packaging and food quality, implying that traditional rice cake has the disavatage of high-calorie.
My case study shows that in order to survive, the owner of Lung Yuan Pastry Store has developed a sale strategy to promote their products as "local specialty" that represents "Hakka" food culture, so as to accord with the Government's policy that advocates to "bring culture to industry, and bring industry to culture".
The existent studies of rice cake and pastry industry concentrates on the Taichung area, which focuses on the taste of Holo ethnic group. My research, instead, makes the initial contribution to the study of Hakka rice cake and pastry, and the successful case is represented by Lung Yuan, located in Beipu Township, Hsinchu County, Taiwan.
URI: http://140.113.39.130/cdrfb3/record/nctu/#GT070155521
http://hdl.handle.net/11536/76063
显示于类别:Thesis