客家菜的鹹、香、肥印象之探討

Abstract

食物與飲食在客家族群文化所佔有的重要性，已經在客家研究中獲得初步的認知與必要的重視，因此客家飲食文化的議題在近年來已成為論及客家認同與客家價值傳播的重要依循與象徵。客家飲食給人「鹹、香、肥」概念的背後，總隱藏著一些令人好奇與必須探究的元素；也就是說，客家的飲食內涵，經由客家族群不斷的遷徙過程，原鄉的痕跡、轉徙土地物產、環境的限制、以及其他族群的影響，構成了今日所見之客家飲食風貌。 本研究以為，成為客家菜的條件，便是存糧的憂患意識與折福的惜物觀，是懷舊滋味情感的依歸，也是彰顯象徵客家人勤奮、儉樸與堅忍不拔的特質，屬於客家族群性格上的符碼。客家飲食的鹹香肥並不是客家飲食文化的一切，但失去了以鹹香肥作為號召的客家飲食，在客家文化的形塑上，彷彿就會少了一味。在經過政府政策與媒體的包裝後，客家菜變成一個新的符號意義，轉換客家菜在日常家庭生活的傳承，客家飲食的文化意象，因此會因為家庭結構的改變、婚嫁對象是否為客籍、成長的背景、區域的發展的不同，產生不同的描述方式，造成客家飲食文化意象的流動。

Foods and diets are significant for culture, and for the identifications of studies, Hakka food culture has become the symbolic icon of Hakka value identity. The concepts of salty, fragrant and fat in Hakka food are concealed by mysteriously environmental and nostalgic backgrounds, and as well as are told by the legacies of Hakka histories. The study recognizes that the Hakka foods are embedded in the philosophies of living and the dependence of emotions. Albeit salty, fragrant, and fat are not everything, the construction of Hakka cultures still need them to expand and highlight. After the promotions of public policies and media, the meanings of Hakka foods have transferred from the inheritance of daily life to a new symbol, and the food cultural images of Hakka could be mobilized through the Hakka family structure, individual growing background, distinct development of region, and the ways of seeing Hakka foods.